Jean Louis

Costume designer
An Academy Award nominee 14 times, Jean Louis was one of the greatest motion picture costume designers of all time, and had few equals when it came to creating gowns for the top female stars. His renown was so great ... Read more »
Born: 10/05/1907 in Paris, FR

Filmography

Wardrobe, Hair & Makeup (59)

Lost Horizon 1972 (Movie)

(Costumes)

Don't Just Stand There! 1968 (Movie)

(Costumes)

P.J. 1968 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Hell With Heroes 1968 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Thoroughly Modern Millie 1967 (Movie)

(Costumes)

Guess Who's Coming to Dinner 1966 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Blindfold 1965 (Movie)

(Costumes)

Bus Riley's Back in Town 1965 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Madame X 1965 (Movie)

(Costumes)

Mirage 1965 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Send Me No Flowers 1964 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Strange Bedfellows 1964 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

That Funny Feeling 1964 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

I'd Rather Be Rich 1963 (Movie)

(Costumes)

For Love or Money 1962 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Thrill of It All 1962 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Back Street 1961 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

If a Man Answers 1961 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Portrait in Black 1960 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Song Without End 1960 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Strangers When We Meet 1960 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Who Was That Lady? 1960 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Imitation of Life 1959 (Movie)

costume design(Lana Turner) (Costume Designer)

Middle of the Night 1959 (Movie)

costume design(Miss Novak) (Costume Designer)

Pillow Talk 1959 (Movie)

(Doris Day's gowns) (Costumes)

Bell, Book and Candle 1958 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Last Angry Man 1958 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

They Came to Cordura 1958 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

3:10 to Yuma 1957 (Movie)

Gowns (Costumes)

Jeanne Eagels 1957 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Pal Joey 1957 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Brothers Rico 1957 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Story of Esther Costello 1957 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Autumn Leaves 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Jubal 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Picnic 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Eddy Duchin Story 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Garment Jungle 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Solid Gold Cadillac 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

You Can't Run Away From It 1956 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Count Three and Pray 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Five Against the House 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

My Sister Eileen 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Queen Bee 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Long Gray Line 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Three For the Show 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Tight Spot 1955 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

A Star Is Born 1954 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Phffft! 1954 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Pushover 1954 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Caine Mutiny 1954 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Violent Men 1954 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

It Should Happen to You 1953 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Let's Do It Again 1953 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

The Big Heat 1953 (Movie)

costume design (Costume Designer)

Born Yesterday 1950 (Movie)

(Costumes)

The Lady From Shanghai 1948 (Movie)

(Costumes)

Dead Reckoning 1947 (Movie)

(Costumes)

Marilyn Monroe: The Final Days (TV Show)

Costumes
Actor (3)

Supermodel of the World 1986 - 1987 (TV Show)

Actor

A Virgin Named Mary 1974 (Movie)

Luca (Actor)

E Poi lo Chiamarono il Magnifico 1970 (Movie)

(Actor)
Camera, Film, & Tape (1)

Nightfall 1957 (Movie)

(Director of Photography)
Other (1)

Shockproof 1948 (Movie)

gowns (Other)

Biography

An Academy Award nominee 14 times, Jean Louis was one of the greatest motion picture costume designers of all time, and had few equals when it came to creating gowns for the top female stars. His renown was so great that many say he defined glamour through the movies; and many of his top works, such as the "Put the Blame on Mame" gown for Rita Hayworth in "Gilda" (1946) -- which has been copied by every designer since -- and Marilyn Monroe's gown when she sang "Happy Birthday Mr. President" to JFK in 1962, and the flesh-colored gown Marlene Dietrich was sewn into for her Las Vegas stage debut in 1953, have become legend. Many don't recall the scripts of Loretta Young's 1950s anthology series, but few who saw the show have forgotten the 52 Jean Louis gowns she wore when she swept into the room to introduce each week's show. Jean Louis (ne Berthault) was born in France and emigrated to the U.S. in 1936 to become a chief designer for the famed Hattie Carnegie house. He began designing clothes for clients such as the Duchess of Windsor, and Hollywood stars Merle Oberon and Irene Dunne. It was Dunne who brought him another client, Joan Cohn, wife of Columbia studio head Harry Cohn. Through Mrs. Cohn's influence, Jean Louis was lured west in 1943 to become chief designer for Columbia. His first work could be seen in 1944 in such films as "Strange Cargo" and "Together Again." But after "Gilda" everyone began to take notice. Jean Louis designed Judy Holliday's gowns for "Born Yesterday" (1951), and won his only Academy Award for gowning her in "The Solid Gold Cadillac" (1956). He was the first designer to earn the screen credit "Gowns By..." Other films with his touch include Judy Garland's "A Star Is Born" (1954), "From Here to Eternity" (1953), "Pillow Talk" (1959), and his last, "Forty Carats" (1973). So extensive was Louis' dominance that his 14 Academy Award nominations included multiples in a single year -- for both black and white and color films. Whether it was Lana Turner's clinging sweaters, or Doris Day's sexy wardrobe for "Pillow Talk," his work will not be forgotten. After working for Universal in the early 60s, Jean Louis left full-time studio work. Although he would continue to freelance for pictures, he devoted most of his time to his salon in Beverly Hills, where clients included Nancy Reagan. He later retired to Palm Springs in 1988. In 1993, six years after the death of his first wife, Louis married former client Loretta Young.

Relationships

Louis Berthault

Father

Mathilde Berthault

Mother

Adrian Berthault

Brother
older survived him

Margaret Fisher

Wife
Married 1955 until her death 1989

Loretta Young Actor

Wife
Married Aug. 10, 1993 until his death April 20, 1997

Milestones

1962

Designed the dress Marilyn Monroe wore at Madison Square Garden to serenade President Kennedy on his birthday

1953

Designed Marlene Dietrich's famous flesh-colored gown for her Las Vegas debut

1946

Designed the famous strapless gown worn by Rita Hayworth in "Gilda"

1942

Named chief designer at Columbia Pictures

1936

Moved to USA from France

1936

Was lead designer for Hattie Carnegie in New York

In Early 1960s, left motion picture work and opened his own salon; clients included Nancy Reagan and the Duchess of Windsor

Designed more than 50 gowns to be worn by Loretta Young on "The Loretta Young Show"; married Young in 1993

Bonus Trivia

.

Louis donated his 1956 Oscar to a French museum.

.

For many years the secret of how Rita Hayworth's "Gilda" gown remained in place even when she lifted her arms was a mystery. Louis revealed the secret to People magazine in 1987: plastic molding inside the top.

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